Because it’s so humid and hot this summer, here I am again longing to go up to the cool misty mountains of Baguio. Shot in 1910, the photograph above shows Kennon Road (formerly Benguet Road) with De Dion-Bouton classic cars. Believe it or not, these cars used to climb up the steep and snake-like road of Kennon.
The road itself, now one of the three access roads to the city, was built largely by immigrant Japanese nationals followed by the Fil-Chinese, Americans and Filipinos beginning in 1903. Col. Lyman Kennon lead the road-construction project (yep, he’s an American colonel, in the backdrop of the Philippine-American War) with around 1,500 Japanese workers, most of whom, stayed on in Baguio after the road was completed. Many of these Japanese influenced Igorot farming, namely organic farming which some farmers in La Trinidad still practice today. When the Japanese Occupation ended in 1945, many Japanese in Baguio, even the long-time residents, were suspected of treason and were forcefully deported to their country.
I had an oral history interview with an old Filipina lady in Baguio who married a Japanese. When her husband was deported after the war, it was so sudden that she never had the time to say goodbye. They never saw each other again.
Session Road, Baguio City in the 1950s
I’m missing Baguio too much.
On September 1, 1909 Baguio was incorporated as a city by the Philippine Assembly.
Above is the original masterplan of Daniel Burnham for the City of Baguio; thus was born the City of Pines and one of the finest Summer Capitols in the world. Though it was originally founded on the site of a Ibalois settlement. It really was originally conceived to be a city of leisure and beauty. The plans tried to use the gorgeous geography of the area to best benefit.
It is sad how far Baguio has fallen; even compared to the 1980s. It can be, it should be, one of the premier rest destinations in the country, and even the region. It lends itself to that. But with the coming of major enterprise, small business that used to lend so much charm to the city have been driven out. The older homes, built during the early American era, are being lost; homes that bring charm and a uniqueness to the city. Those homes should be preserved, just as the indigenous culture and the city’s ecology must be as well. The City has to be involved; they need to take their cues from other cities (such as Iloilo City or Cebu City) which have created heritage zones to preserve their built heritage.
I remember the Baguio of my childhood (which was not too long ago); it was beautiful and fresh and even clean. There was a vibrancy to it that has been lost, I fear. The city itself feels too much like any other big city; just with the added complication of hills. Instead of Baguio being a walking city, as originally envisioned (much like San Francisco), it has become a morass of gridlocked vehicles, stuck at odd angles throughout the city. Hills covered in lush greenery are now covered in rusting corrugated roofing.
Though there still is hope for a renewal; the city has to be lead. SM killed off Session road, but the nostalgia still remains. The city has to work with its art and culture communities to bring back Session Road, to reinvigorate the artistic side of the city. That could very well the beginning of a renewal in our Summer Capitol.
Thank God someone posted a hi-res Burnham blueprint of Baguio! Saw the original one in the archives. What saddens me most about Baguio is the fact that not only is it an overly crowded city (It was originally designed for 15,000 people. Now it supports 400,000 population), it’s the loss of pine-trees, quaintness and the building of SM Baguio. What scares me is the building of Ayala Mall in the city.
And I’m still wondering why many houses in Baguio remain unpainted.
Source: iwriteasiwrite









